Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Hoth Rebel Soldier/Hoth Luke Jacket, vest, and hat

It certainly has been a long while since I posted here, probably most people think I don't upkeep my blog anymore!  Truth is, I am so busy with what feels like a thousand projects, I move from one to the next without taking time to blog about each one.  I do, however, take pictures! 

About 6 months ago I was working on a Hoth commission and I decided to be more accurate with the jacket this time around.  I am certain the Hoth soldiers (and Luke) wore a pullover jacket with a hood.  Here are a gathering of a few of the reference images I've collected, and I apologize, I cannot remember the sources for all of them.  I do know I got quite a few from the Ice Station Echo Yahoo Group I am a member of.  The picture of Carrie Fisher is a behind the scenes image of her wearing some else's jacket and gear, it gives a great view of the jacket.  The lower picture is an exhibit picture of Luke's costume.  Luke's jacket appears to be the same as the trench trooper, though in the movie, I believe he wore his jacket tucked into his pants so the bottom of the jacket isn't visible.

For the jacket, I used McCall's 5252 (a unisex jacket and vest pattern) View F with alterations.  I didn't have to make too many alterations, mostly just leaving out the pockets and the front seams on the lower portion of the jacket.

You will need to figure out exactly how long your sleeves will need to be before you cut out the pattern.

Once you figure out the length of your sleeve (plus seam allowance) figure out how high the quilted portion of the jacket will be for your jacket.  As best I can tell, the quilting does not begin at the hem of the sleeve, it starts up farther closer to where the gauntlet of the glove would rest.  Then, it extends up the forearm just below the elbow.

You will need to cut two full sized sleeves and two separate, smaller, sections for the quilted portion.  You will also need some batting for the quilted section.

Use tailors' pencil and draw diagonal 1" squares, then top stitch over the lines to quilt the batting to the fabric.

You will need a top yoke made of tan quilted fabric.  I had pre-quilted fabric, but if you cannot find any, you will need to quilt your own, similar to the quilting for the sleeves.  Both front and back yoke sections need to be lined, but the back yoke needs to have the bottom seam hidden, as it will be lose along the bottom edge.  You will need a full back piece in off-white as well as the tan quilted portion.

The front quilted portion will need the center front seams hidden.  The bottom seams will be sewn with the off-white jacket front piece. 

Attach the hood after the shoulder seams have been sewn.

You will want to stay stitch the back quilted portion to the back off-white portion before sewing on the sleeves.

This is how the front should look after the front off-white portion is sewn onto the front quilted portions.

Jacket with sleeves sewn on.  You will need to sew the quilted sections on the sleeve and then sew the pockets in place before sewing the sleeves to the jacket.

Sew sleeve hems, underarm sleeves (allow for a side slit on each side), and jacket hem.

The white trench trooper vest is fairly straight forward.  I got my pattern from the Ice Station Echo Yahoo group. (Thank-you Phyllis!)

You will need two white fabric pieces and one of batting.  Sew together, leaving an opening at the bottom.

Trim corners and clip curves.

Turn right side out and top stitch edges.

Closer view of top stitching.

Following the guides on the pattern, mark the quilting lines on the "collar" section with tailors pencil.  Top stitch.

Another view of the top stitched quilting.

Add white Velcro for your front closure.

If you haven't done so yet, you will need to slip stitch the opening left at the bottom of the vest that was used to turn the vest right side out after sewing together.

Use white 2" polypropylene strapping for the belt.  I used some fabric scraps to make "extensions" that the belt hardware attached to.  Use white 1" polypropylene strapping to make four belt loops for the holster belt.

Use 1" white polypropylene strapping to attach the backpack hardware to the "collar".

Finished jacket, hat, and vest.